The Eichenkrantz Restaurant

German Cuisine and Bargain Specials in Highlandtown

by Cathy Adams

     The Eichenkrantz Restaurant, off the beaten track in Highlandtown, opened in 1939 and was Highlandtown's other well-known German restaurant.Then it went through hard times and several owners during the '70's and '80's, and when the current owner, Harold Bowles, bought it in 1989 it had been closed for several years.

     It took almost a year to completely renovate, remodel and reopen the space. (Bowles decided to keep the original name. The Eichenkrantz was an old German singing society). At first the restaurant offered only the traditional German and American menu, and after months of $20 days, Bowles decided he had to make some changes. He began to offer daily specials at $1.99 for a complete lunch or dinner. Slowly the neighborhood business began to come back as he enticed people in with his low prices and kept them coming back with good service, food and an attractive dining room.

     Today the specials' range from $3.99-6.99 for a complete meal, and is still a great bargain. "You can't go to McDonald's to eat for less," Bowles said. When asked how he can afford to serve food for such low prices, his philosophy is that he can't afford an empty dining room either.

     The specials include Fried Chicken or Pork Schnitzel ($3.99); Crab Fluff or Sourbeef and Dumplings ($4.99); Stuffed Pork Chop or Baked Flounder ($5.99) and Backfin Crabcake or Shrimp Salad ($6.99).

     Even the regular dinner menu is very moderately priced. Among the German specialties are Sauerbraten with gingersnap gravy and potato dumplings, four varieties of Veal Schnitzel, Hasenpfeffer (braised rabbit in a peppery red wine sauce) and Rouladen (beef rolls with a filling of carrots, onions and pickles and braised in a mushroom sauce).

     The Eichenkrantz takes beef seriously, with four different cuts available: New York Strip, Porterhouse, Filet and a 20 ounce Prime Rib. Seafood is also well represented with Sesame Crusted Orange Roughy with a Ginger Butter, Sauteed Scallops, Baked Red Snapper with Brown Butter and Crab Cakes.

     Eichenkrantz carries four imported German beers on tap and a small selection of German wines, most available for $9-10.

     Previously, Bowles had been in the construction and was originally interested in owning a bar, but his wife wouldn't go for that, so he acquired The Eichenkrantz. "This type of work is harder than the construction business," he said. "I didn't know how long it would take to get the business going.

Eichenkrantz's Pork Chops with Apples and Apple Brandy Sauce
(Schwinkoteletten mit Apfeln)

serves 2

INGREDIENTS

• 4 4 ounce boneless pork chops
  
• 2 Granny Smith Apples, peeled, cored, and cut into six wedges
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 2 ounces apple jack
• 1 cup demi-glace (see note)
• 2 tablespoons flour